You can use either copper or aluminum, though I recommend copper for DIYers. I know I need four-strand wire to run to the sub-panel (2 hot, neutral, ground) but copper or aluminum and what gauge? Motor loads will draw a higher current on start, but you shouldn't have a problem. Most of the equipment won't draw anywhere near the overcurrent rating, at least not during normal operation. I'm happy to provide more details if you need them.Īnother question has come up: should I put a 100 amp breaker in the sub-panel to act as the "main" for the sub-panel? Or is the 100 amp breaker in the main panel sufficient?ĭoes the sub-panel seem over loaded? If so, I could keep the water-heater in the main panel and free up space in the panel another way. the questions I don't know enough to ask. What are the things about this project that I don't know that I don't know.When I run the wire along the floor joist, does it need to be secured to the joist or can it just hang there and rest on the drop ceiling? Seems like it should be secured to the joist with wire hanger or something.I know I need four-strand wire to run to the sub-panel (2 hot, neutral, ground) but copper or aluminum and what gauge?.Does the sub-panel seem over loaded? If so, I could keep the water-heater in the main panel and free up space in the panel another way.I can provide more details if needed, just not sure what someone would need to know. Picture of current main panel attached.I'll need 70-80 feet of wire to run from the main panel to the new sub-panel.Since the sub-panel will be installed in the same room as the water heater, I plan on removing the 2-pole 30 amp breaker for the water heater and using that slot for the breaker that will feed the sub-panel. The wire will need to run both through the floor joists in some locations and then along a joist in another location. However, this job is bigger than I've ever done so I wanted to get some advice. I've never had a problem doing minor electrical work around the house in the past. and it seems to make sense at this point to install a sub-panel for that equipment. I'm planning on installing some equipment for a water well pump, water softner, etc. Even if you found a way to match breaker sizes, realistically the feeder breaker in the house will trip most of the time.I currently have a 200 amp main panel that is full. I want the breakers to be the same size so the breaker in the shed will trip first, and save me a long walk to the house". Feel free to price separate disconnect switches if you want to, but you'll find "just getting a panel with a main breaker" is the cheapest way to get a disconnect switch. It's only there to be a disconnect switch, to satisfy a Code requirement for a disconnect switch in an outbuilding. Yes, that means you may have a 150A breaker in the subpanel being fed by a 50A breaker. So size your panel for the spaces and make sure its busing is at least 50A (which won't be hard). So you should be buying a subpanel with way more spaces than you think you're going to need, to assure you never run out. The most important job of a subpanel is to not run out of spaces. Even if 50A panels existed, they would be very small in terms of numbers of spaces. However, you certainly should exceed your feed-breaker size of 50A. It's the same with subpanels: The "100A" is a maximum rating. *You're allowed to drive 65 on those, it is saying don't exceed 112 mph*. Almost any tire these days is rated 112 mph.
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